Why Aconcagua? Usually its the second continent summit after people successfully climb Kilimanjaro? What are your chances of Summiting Aconcagua:30-40%. Is it worth the attempt? Lets find out?

Of the total number of people who attempt the climb each season, only 30-40 out of 100 may reach to the top of the mountain aka Summit. Not that other 60-70% are not capable, but there are a variety of circumstances that may be responsible for them not summitting.

Aconcagua climb is very unlike Kilimanjaro climb. Its variables are more diverse and different. So what’s the challenge! 

Aconcagua can be climbed successfully solo, in small groups or large groups. Aconcagua can be climbed on a budget or in comparative luxury at substantial expedition cost. So, what does it take to Climb Aconcagua to the top? Its not just You.

Aconcagua is a multi-day climbing expedition,usually ranging from 10 to 20 days. 10 days for those who are pre-acclimatized at prior higher altitudes and may fly into the Base camp. 20 days for a  climber who needs to fully acclimatize locally.

There are many characteristics of a climb to Aconcagua and can apply to other mountains as well. Understanding them can give a reality check and help you prepare and climb better. 

The Mountain: The Observer

All mountains are not created equal. Characteristics of a mountain are the 1st thing to consider. In general, following are a Mountain characteristic:

1. Geography/Location
2. Mountain Terrain
3. Climate 
4. Weather
5. Trail distances between camps 
6. Trail terrain between camps
7. Altitude between camps
8. Altitude gain on Summit Day
9. Summit approach profile from last camp
10. Grade of trails between different sections
11. Trail Exposure
12. Trail conditions at the time of climb
13. Time to climb

Aconcagua is situated at : Lat. 32°39’11.4444”S, Long. 70°0’39.1104” W. It is almost in the middle of South America and just 80 km from Pacific ocean. It is on a high desert such that there is no vegetation on the mountain. Air is dry. Climate is extremely warm during the day and cool in the night.

Climbing season of Aconcagua is a short window from December to February when it is peak summer season. Since the climb is from 9678 feet to 22837 feet, weather is different at any given moment ranging from (appx) 80F at entrance to -10F on Summit with windchills bringing it lower.

Terrain of the mountain area relevant to climbing encompasses giant screes, vast rocky slopes, stone walls, rock spires, snow fields and beautiful landscapes. There is no vegetation, hence no tree cover. Trails therefore are highly exposed.

There is an altitude gain of appx 13000 ft from park entrance to summit and usually done in 5 camp stops. This does not include acclimatization stops. The elevation gain is highest on Base camp day and Summit day of 3000-3500 feet. Ascending grade of trails between the high camps is gentle (for acclimatization) interspersed with steep sections for elevation gain whereas descending trails have a steep grade for quick descent.

As mentioned, due to the geology of the mountain, the trails are dry, dirt and scree at lower elevation and when snow free, all the way to the Summit. The trails are narrow on the edge of the mountain slopes. There is no rock scramble at lower portion however the mountain slopes are rock laden. Any slip from the trail due to altitude sickness or lack of focus can be injurious or fatal.

The trail to Summit from Camp 3 has different characteristics with initial gentle climb to a long traverse on a steep side of the mountain (at 21000 feet) and a steep scramble up the summit. This is the most difficult and dangerous section of the summit especially at the highest altitude and in snow covered conditions.

Trail conditions can vary between higher camps. In early to mid december, all trails upto Summit may be snow free, whereas starting mid January trails from above Camp1 may be snow and ice covered requiring mountaineering boots and crampons from lower altitudes itself. Ice is a big risk factor as it can be super slippery, especially on steep trail curves/bends and narrow sections.Ice is formed when snow on the trail melts during the day and freezes in the night. Hidden ice is also a danger, when a light layer of snow covers the Ice underneath or Ice on the rocky surfaces on the trail.

Due to the steep mountain slopes covered with rocks with no tree cover, walking on trails requires focus and a good footing. Prior experience on this type of terrain is quite important both in ascending and descending. Also, you may be wearing trekking boots, mountaineering boots and/or crampons in snow/ice.

Trai distance varies between higher camps as many trail criss cross the mountain. Descending trails are shorter, ascending trails longer. Normally ranging in 4-5 km  between high camps. Base camp trail from park entrance is 21 km with a stop enroute at 4km.

Trail until the summit are known to be snowfree for a small period in December. After that, the trail to the summit from Camp 3 can be expected to be covered in snow. Depth and type of snow can vary each season and also the difficulty can vary according to it. Without snow at higher camps, the climbing conditions could be very dry and also water scarcity on the mountain. With snow, there could be more water on higher camps and less dry, however trails could become icey based on temperature variations.

A virtual tour of the link is provided here (Note:view shown is of a dry mountain, however it can be snow covered in late season) 

http://grajales.net/virtual-tour/normal-route/Aconcagua_normal_route.html

The Man: The Doer, The Climber

Climbing a mountain as Aconcagua is a test of various Human dimensions against the Mountain. The man is the Doer against the mountain, the Observer. Various dimensions of a climber are its physical, psychological, personality,  character and inspiration. The Mountain reveals The (wo)Man.Individuals traits and characteristics are reflected in many different ways on the mountain.  Following characteristics of the climber become relevant on the mountain:

Note: Brief definition of the characteristic is just a hint to understanding its relevance on the mountain

1. Physical built – a strong build, strong heart, leg muscles, bones, knee joints and lower spine.
2. Physiological soundness – Body’s internal chemical and biological processes are in strong working condition to work at extreme environmental conditions.
3. Physical Immunity – Ability of the body immune system to withstand minor bugs, cold, bacteria or virus that may come in contact without causing  infections.
4. Body Metabolism – Ability to efficiently convert food into energy, especially carbohydrates without increasing sugar levels.
5. Bowels efficiency – Regular bowel movement before start of the hike.
6. Digestive strength – Ability to digest different food and water on the mountain without digestive issues.
7. Lactate Metabolism – Ability to process Lactate Acid produced by the body, avoiding cramps and fatigue (no Lactate acidosis).The increase in lactate production is usually caused by impaired tissue oxygenation, either from decreased oxygen delivery or a defect in mitochondrial oxygen utilization.
8. Equilibrioception (Vestibulospinal Reflex (VSR)) – Sense of body balance on rocks, slopes, Icey conditions
9. Stamina – Ability to max hike at full strength (e.g push your limit to the last stretch)
10. Endurance – Ability to long hike at constant speed (eg continue on a long haul at constant speed).
11. Breathing efficiency – Steady breathing via nose.
12. VO2 Max – Amount of Oxygen body uses at max exertion, lower is better.
13. Resting Heart Rate: A lower heart rate at rest means efficient heart function and better cardiovascular fitness. An athlete may have 40-50 beats/min at low altitude.
14. Blood Pressure – Should be within the range irrespective of Altitude.
15. Energy (short and long term) – Ability to have bursts of energy as well as energy for long duration efforts
16. Memory (short and long term) – Ability to remember short term events as well as longer term memory of things.
17. Organizational ability – Ability to organize, find, use, not lose things in short space and time.
18. Acclimatization ability – Body ability to have enough oxygen saturation to climb higher without losing your bearings
19. Psychological soundness – Mental stability, not lose cool, not panic.
20. Emotional maturity – Cope up emotionally from different circumstances on the mountain such as roughness, ruggedness, loneliness, interpersonal issues etc.
21. Determination – Keenness to finish a task at hand overcoming hurdles and in time duration, not to give up.
22. Patience and Perseverance – Be patient on the outcome, persevere during the hike/task.
23. Water and Mineral absorption/depletion of the body – Ability to drink 4-5 ltrs of mineral-rich water per day and preserve in body without depleting too many minerals.
24. Temperature tolerance – Be able to tolerate extreme temperatures 
25. Sinus sensitivity/adaptability – Sinus adaptability to cold temperatures such as breathing in cold temperatures while sleeping.
26. Skin sensitivity – Skin adaptability to hot and cold temperatures so important tasks can be done in extreme conditions.
27. Eye sensitivity/adaptability – Eyes sensitivity to bright light, snow glare, rocks
28. Stress management – Ability to calmly handle stress arising out the rigor of multiday survival in tough conditions.
29. Anxiety management – Ability to calmly handle the anxiety of the unknown and unexpected happenings, events and outcomes. 
30. Time management – Ability to do things in a given time as per expedition requirements on a daily basis
31. Risk taking – Ability to take small/big, calculated/random  risks or not, arising out of climbing and other variables of/on the mountain.
32. Hygienability – Ability to minimally maintain/accept your hygiene in harsh environment without anxiety and infection. 
33. Humility -.Be humble to fellow climbers, people and nature around you. Be cognizant of your limitations and frailties. 
34. Interpersonal camaraderie – Being friendly, cooperative, helping and accepting with fellow climbers and support crew. 
35. Prior Disposition – Thoughts, beliefs and premonitions related to the different aspects of/on the mountain.
36. Previous experiences – Having training and experience in related activities required for  climb and camp.
37. Survival instincts – Ability to survive in harsh conditions of nature in barren conditions 
38. Head for heights – Ability to withstand the sight of high slopes of the mountain to climb or descent (no Acrophobia)
39. Ego or Not – Notion that I’m in control of the outcome or I surrender to the mountain and I only do my best.
40. Stubbornness – Being stubborn in things that may impact others inconveniently.
41. Chattiness – Habit of talking a lot to the annoyance of others, usually out of insecurity or anxiety.
42. Posturing – Talking to impress, self-promote, brag, social recognition/acceptance; contrast, compare and attack to feel better, curry favors etc.
43. Hindsighting 2020 – Talking of things in the past that could have been done right or in future.
44. Enthusiastic/Energetic: Exhibits energy all the time and cheer up others.
45. Management – Managing things or decisions on a regular basis for the well being of the group as a whole. 
46. Leadership – A decision that may propel the group out of a crisis or to a new positive experience/outcome within the circumstances.
47. Aggressiveness – Being aggressive in a group when limited resources are at disposal.
48. Self-centeredness – Thinking about your own well-being in a group without consideration of others at a cursory level.
49. Whats at stake – Whats the inspiration/motivation behind climbing Aconcagua?  Whats at stake if the summit fails? What do you gain, if you Summit and return successfully? Can you accept failure unconditionally? Would you blame game? 
50. Underlying medical conditions – If there are prior medical conditions such as diabetes, high/low blood pressure, cardiac issues, it can amplify at higher altitudes if not properly managed.

All of the above characteristics (and more) come into play while a climber is on the mountain, alone or in a group, while camping, hiking, sleeping and time in between. Anyone of this characteristic can make, break or hamper the climbers ability to climb and summit. 

It is to be acknowledged that there are many variables in a climber’s existence on the mountain while taking day by day to climb and aspire to summit. 

The Guide: The Climb Manager

The Guide, if you have hired one directly or via expedition company, plays the most important and critical role on the mountain. He/she is the risk manager of the climb. The guide is not a leader. His training and practice is to bring you back safely from the mountain and not necessarily summit at any cost. He checks weather and makes decisions for Summit and enroute to summit among other climbers fitness decisions based on medical reports from mountain doctors. Guide characteristics are:

1. Communication skills – Communicates clearly and regularly with the climber, group on the daily preparation and conditions, giving guidance on weather, gear etc.
2. Knowledge and Experience – Knowledge and experience of/on the mountain is critical for decision making and risk management for the climber/group. 
3. Strengths – In climbing, summiting, safety, non-summiting, timing, extending a helping hand, emergency response are some of the many strengths needed from a guide.
4. Social skills –  Social skills are important to make the climber feel at ease and secure on the mountain. Ability to skillfully handle  unhappy situations that arise from climbers behavior or performance. 
5. Balance of Mind – Keep a balanced state of mind in the ups and downs on the mountain, with the climber, with the group etc. 
6. Racial/Social Bias: Guide may have inherent/implicit bias for folks of certain race/nationality which may be evident in their behavior on the mountain.
7. Priority – What are guide priorities on the mountain?
8. Principle – Can the guide  priority be swayed  with talk or tips?
9. Expectations from client – What do the guide expect from the climber/group
10. Assistant guides and support staff – If in a group, there assistant guides will support the guide to keep a climber to guide ratio at a minimum as communicated. They also play an important role during the trek.
11. Porters – Human porters are for hire separately and help in transporting personal equipment 

Climbing Group

If you are in a group of climbers, in an Open expedition or a private group, there are many characteristics that can impact the outcome:

1. Camaraderie – is there a team spirit with the group, friendship that is supportive of each other
2. Culture – Is the culture of caring and sharing, banter and acceptance
3. Cohesiveness – Is there a strong bonding or everyone of their own
4. Self-organizing – can the group self organize quickly when needs arieses.
5. Pairing – are the climbers in support pairs of each other, do they support while camping, climbing, chores etc.

6. Leadership – is there an official/unofficial group leader that keeps the group together, can make decisions on behalf of the group, and  makes sense of things when things go haywire. 
7. Management – Can any untoward situation be managed by the group with regards to group member or some outcome.

Hiking and Camping: The Experience

Climbing Aconcagua is about Hiking. Prior experience is very important. So what you need to know and do:

1. Mentally tough/Endurance hikes – Long and mentally tough hikes, some  over 14 hours
2. Scree and Snow Hikes (and descends) – Climb up and descend on scree slopes, snowy slopes, steep drop offs
3. Steep Edge trail Hikes – Experience on trails on steep slopes and rocky drop offs
4. High Altitude Hikes – Experience on High Altitude trails over 12Kfeet with proper breathing and long duration (12-14 hours).
5. Scrambling Hikes – Experience on rock and snow scrambles at inclines
6. Full crampon hikes – Experience with full crampons on snowy/icey trails
7. Backpacking/Multiday camping – Multiday camping and living out of a backpack.
8. Winter multiday camping – Winter wilderness camping, in 0-20F temperatures, for 2-3 nights.
9. Peeing and Pooping in the cold/wilderness without a seat.

Camp Life 

Camp life is very harsh on Higher camps. There are no toilet facilities. Sleeping tents are installed and uninstalled for every stay. There is no Mess tents. Kitchen tents are for the support staff to cook. You will doing the following:

1. Maintaining Basic hygiene – Doing things as brushing teeth, pee, poop, body cleanup are common activities to be performed.  Weather would be cold, and possibly windy if done outside the tent.  If no tent shelter is provided for pooping, you may be doing outside in the open, behind a rock, in a poop bag. This may be your toughest daily activity. In the night, you may end up peeing in a pee bottle inside the tent rather than stepping out in the cold and dark.  
2. Skincare: Being very dry weather, moisturizing skin esp lips will be very essential part of the daily routine. Also, sun screen will be important to prevent sun burns.
3. Water – Collecting water may be required from water sources nearby or collecting hard snow for melting at camp 3. You are required to drink 4-5 litres of water and getting it all hot, especially in a large group will be a challenge. Hence you will have to contend with a litre of  hot water and rest cold. 
4. Food – Food will be cooked by the guides (if so hired) but you will have to collect from the kitchen. When its early or cold and snowy, this may itself be a painful activity. Lunch most likely will be packed. 
5. Walk/acclimatize – if its a rest day on the camp, you may just walk around or stay inside the tent doing stuff, planning, organizing, fixing things with your tent mate if sharing.

Gear, Gadgets n stuff

Mount Aconcagua needs advanced gear similar to Mount Everest grade. While selection gear, following things need to be considered:

1. Weight – Gear needs to be lightweight so more gear can be carried in allotted provision
2. Volume – gear should be compact as possible to fit in a fixed size backapck
3. Durability – gear will be subjected to rough conditions, hence should be durable  
4. Usability – Should be easy to use and should have experience using it. 
5. Accessibility – Gear packed should be easily and quickly accessible when needed.
6. Accuracy (of gadgets) – If bringing technical gadgets, accuracy is important
7. Longevity – Gear should have a good life such as batteries 
8. Reusability – Should be reusable
9. Repairability – If a gear is broken, you should know how to repair it. 
10. Securability – Can the gear be secure in its use from camping mishaps

Weight and Volume vs Cost is a constant tradeoff in choosing gear. Normally, lightweight and compact gear will be costlier but higher cost outweighs the benefits at higher altitude where effort to carry is more.

Managing gear will be your most important activity.

Luggage logistics

 In your luggage/personal equipment, you may end up with 150-200 pieces of clothing/gear/accessories, with a lot of small, similar, same items.You may leave your home with 2 suitcases whereas on the mountain, you may cramp everything in a duffel bag for the porter or a backpack and a daypack, depending upon the porter services you take or not. There are multiple transitions of your luggage from the day you leave your home to the last camp, normally, about 7-10 transitions. At stops enroute to the mountain and on camps, you will constantly be:

1. Organizing – Putting similar things in dry sack assuming you will find it earily when needed. 
2. Packing – Packing in a bag (Duffel bag, backpack, daypack or porter bag)
3. Unpacking – Unpacking things at the camp
4. Forgetting and Finding – Forgetting where you kept that little thing and rummaging your bag to find it 
5. Misplacing – Placing/putting the thing which should be at someplace and not replacing it in the same place (pocket, bag,location).
6. Losing (occasionally) – You may forget or drop and leave something somewhere and someone else picks it or keeps it some or get blown away in the wind.
7. Groping for stuff in dark – In camps, there may not be light in tent and/or you may be finding things in the duffel or backpack in the dark with the feel of your fingers

If you take the services of a human porter (from Base camp to higher camps – Camp 1,2,3), the porter will unpack your gear from the bag you provided, pack in their backpack, and they will re-put the things in your duffel. Theres a possibility of not finding things in the same order. If you are in large group, the duffels and things can be misplaced in different tents on higher camps. This causes a bit of aggravation, especially if the arrival conditions at the camp are not conducive.   

Summit or No Summit

Why you may succeed to Summit and return safely (On the day of Summit push from Camp 3):

1. Good trail conditions – Dry trails to the summit, or Snowy trails with good traction from Camp 3 to Summit and back.
2. Good weather conditions on Summit day to begin your summit push – Low winds are critical. Normally there is a 1-2 hour window to start summit push.
3. You are dressed and geared properly – Not feeling cold at toes, hands or head.
4. You are acclimatized well and do not have a headache in the morning.  
5. You are mentally alert and not sleepy.
6. You are mentally strong from previous experiences of similar nature.
7. You have the strength and stamina for a 12-16 hours grueling day.
8. Your bowels are empty such that you are not feeling bad in your stomach.
9. You have a supportive guide and guide to climber ratio is at most 1:2 to the summit.
10. You are maintaining sufficient speed such that you are able to reach the Summit within the turnaround time set by the guide – usually 2pm.

Why you may Not Succeed to Summit from Camp 3:

There could be many reasons for you not to Summit. We may or may not accept the reasoning arising out of our notions, beliefs and facts. However, following could be some reasons:

1. Trail conditions are bad especially on the traverse and after it.
2. Winds are strong, in the beginning deterring the climbers from proceeding further.
3. There is low visibility due to cloud cover.
4. You are not acclimatized well, do not have enough water or other bodily defeciency.
5. You are feeling cold at the onset and fear of frostbite.
6. You are not feeling alert, energetic and physically well.
7. You start feeling dizzy and/or exhausted.
8. You are resting often such that you will not make to the summit until turnaround time.
9. Your gear may fail (e.g. crampon) or do not have a critical gear required for summit in the prevalent conditions. 
10. Your crampons get stuck, lose your bearing, trip and slip and lose confidence.
11. You are slow in the pack.
12. Your guide assess that it may be detrimental (to the group), dangerous or life threatening for you to continue.
13. In a group, guide to climber ratio has increased enroute to the summit as some other members (and supporting guides) have returned before the summit.
14. Weather turns bad in between – Winds, clouds, snow starts/increase, there is danger of avalanche on the summit approach. You may even need to be evacuated.
15. Fear sets in, you start getting panicky, you mentally give up.
16. You hear bad news around you and abandon the summit push.
17. You were overconfident, underestimated the rigor and difficulty of summit day and eventually give up to the mountain.

Why you may Summit and Not return safely

It should be noted that there are no ropes on the trail and the guides cannot hold you with ropes. 

1. You were too exhausted to Summit in the first place and insisted to summit.
2. You get a heart attack due to stress and exertion.
3. You loose your bearing and slip on way back from the steep summit incline or traverse.
4. Trail conditions changed to icey in between.
5. Weather conditions turned bad and mishap happens.
6. You trip and slip on lower camps.

Why you may not reach Higher camps

1. You could not acclimatize and could not climb between camps and give up.
2. You start hallucinating or delirious.
3. You are injured to the extent you have to abandon the climb.
4. You get some infection and cannot continue.
5. You have some underlying medical condition that may exacerbate on higher altitude.
6. You are emotionally and mentally exhausted from the rigor of camping and climbing.
7. You do not have the gear to survive at higher camps.

Suggested Practice Treks and Experience in USA

1. Mount Whitney, CA, day trek (High Alt, endurance)
2. Yosemite Half dome, CA, day trek
3. Backpacking and hiking Longs Peak CO (High Alt)
4. Telescope peak in Death valley National park, CA (High Alt and scree)
5. Mount Elbert, CO in Snow conditions (High Alt)
6. Mount Washington, NH Winter Hike from Ammonoosuc trail (Snow traverse)
7. Mount Massive, CO in June/July (High Alt)
8. Winter Mount Marcy, NY (Snow traverse)
9. Pikes Peak Day hike from base (High Alt,endurance)
10. Franconia Ridge, NH ( Head of heights)
11. 3 or more days backpacking (camping)
12. Endurance hikes in the North East mountains of Catskills, Adirondacks and WhiteMountains

POST climb

Aconcagua climb can be only successful 30-40% of the time with a Summit. However, there is success in every step. It can take years to prepare and still with no Summit or you may be fortunate enough to summit in your first attempt without much preparation. A summit has a different outcome for the climber, his/her outlook, his views etc. A non-summitter has a different opinion. However, there is personal success in each outcome of Aconcagua endeavor. 

Can you ask these questions:

1. What did you learn, summit or no summit?
2. How do you incorporate the lessons of the mountains and make yourself a better person? 
3. How do you contribute your learning/success to the family, community and society you serve? 
4. Did the climb make you more humble to Nature?
5. Do you learn to enjoy the simple things of life?
6. Do you remember to live in the moment? 
7. Can you focus on things and filter out noise? 
8. Can you be thankful to others for your success?
9. Are you a better team player?
10. Can you accept an unfavorable outcome without conditions?
11. Did you discover yourself?
12. Did you find your strengths and weaknesses?
13. Did the Summit success increase your Ego or a non-summit decrease your Ego?
14. Did the Summit success open more avenues for you in life and vice-versa?

References for more info:

Understanding Lactic energy system

https://www.livescience.com/what-is-lactic-acid

VO2 Max

Emotional Maturity:

Water Absorption:

Mouth Breathing

Nose breathing

Physiology

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